In the serene embrace where the Pacific Ocean meets the South China Sea lies a hidden paradise known as Batanes. This enchanting land is a testament to peculiarity and uniqueness, a place where nature’s artistry is on full display. Situated 860 kilometres from Manila, Batanes is encircled by the Bashi Channel to the north, the vast Pacific Ocean to the east, the South China Sea to the west, and the Balintang Channel to the south. Its isolation has preserved its captivating charm, making it a sanctuary untouched by time.
As the smallest province in the Philippines, Batanes is home to approximately 16,000 people scattered across 230 square kilometres. It comprises six municipalities: Ivana, Uyugan, Mahatao, the capital town of Basco, and the island municipalities of Sabtang and Itbayat. The landscape is a tapestry of verdant rolling hills, rugged cliffs, and black and white sand beaches adorned with dramatic rock formations. Itbayat, however, stands apart, with its terrain characterized by steep cliffs rather than shorelines.
Basco, the bustling capital, is the heart of commerce, housing the airport and main seaport. Here, visitors can enjoy modern amenities like electricity, phone lines, cable television, and internet access. It’s not uncommon to hear Chinese broadcasts on the radio, a testament to Basco’s proximity to Taiwan, just 190 kilometres away, and Aparri, about 280 kilometres to the north. The streets are alive with the hum of bicycles and scooters, as luxury cars are a rare sight.
Beyond its reputation for fierce storms, Batanes offers a wealth of attractions. The Ivatans, the island’s people, are renowned for their politeness, honesty, and peace-loving nature. They warmly greet visitors, sharing their culture and hospitality. A hallmark of Ivatan identity is the vakul, a headgear crafted from dried vuyavuy fibre, offering protection from rain and sun. This palm, unique to Batanes, is woven into vakuls by skilled women in Chavayan, Sabtang. The process takes three weeks to a month, resulting in a durable garment that can last a lifetime. Another iconic handicraft is the yuvuk, a native basket made from nito vines and vayasuvas grass, sourced from Mount Iraya, a dormant volcano that last erupted 400 years ago. This mountain also serves as a majestic backdrop to Basco’s airport, though its runway’s condition limits the size of aircraft that can land.
Surrounded by 4,500 square kilometres of territorial waters, Batanes is a haven for deep-sea fish during the summer months. The island of Mavudis is particularly abundant in coconut crabs, or tatus, known for their formidable pincers capable of cracking coconuts. From May to June, flying fish and dorado are plentiful, delighting fishermen and visitors alike.
The months of September and October bring the “Indian summer,” a period of sunny, warm weather that can linger for days or even weeks. A short 30-minute boat ride from Radiwan Point at the Ivana Seaport leads to Sabtang, an island celebrated for its steep mountains and deep canyons, earning it the moniker “New Zealand of the Philippines.” Sabtang is also a repository of Ivatan heritage, home to the iconic lime and stone houses. These resilient structures, designed to withstand the fiercest typhoons, feature two separate buildings—one for living and sleeping, the other for cooking and bathing. Their unique roofs and windowless walls facing the prevailing winds are a testament to the Ivatans’ ingenuity and adaptability.
Batanes is more than just a destination; it’s a journey into a world where nature and culture intertwine, offering a profound emotional connection to its visitors.
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